The RaspBoy (Part 9) – Case closed (almost)

First of all:

Here are the updated schematics of the Raspboy:

I tried to get rid of the noise caused by the Amplifier with a self-made shield:

No, that´s not a condom…..

Another epic fail – the noise was´nt very impressed of the shield. So I installed the old Amplifier again – Better crappy sount than no sound – or noise on the LCD.

I almost closed the Raspboy-Casing by gluing the screw-mounting (which I cut off another GameBoy case) into the Raspboy. It worked perfectly.

Too bad this method worked only with 3 of the 6 screws, so there is a little gap on one of the corners of the RaspBoy case…

The RaspBoy (Part3) – A history of epic fails

Now I have to get rid of all the unnecessary pars of the Raspberry Pi because there is not much roome inside a GameBoy Case:

Warning: This Blogpost is not suitable for professionals because of excessive violence against electrical appliances

The following parts are not needed: The Ethernetport, the USB-Port, the Audio, and Composite-Port.

So i successfully desoldered the Audio and Composite Port and moved on the the 2 remaining ports to desolder them – theoretically….
Well, i tried to desolder them for about an hour to remove them the more elegant way, but I failed miserably.

After that I tried a more …..lets call it… unusual way…….. Armored with a rotary tool and cutting disc I carefully cut the Ports off the raspberry Pi and removed the rest with a side cutter and a scalpel.

After that operation, which will be remembered as the RasPi massacre I powered on the RasPi and – it still works! Honestly I have thought I finally destroyed it, but it seems that the small Raspi is tougher than a T1000…..

After soldering the audio and video connections I found a picture of the correct wiring of the USB port on the web. After wiring I powered on the RasPi again and —– the USB was dead….

Lets start the troubleshooting:
I removed and replaced the whole USB wiring and removed the Hub – without success.
After troubleshooting for a long time  he solution was quite simple:
The wiring of the USB port in the picture I found was on the opposite side of the RasPi, so I need to wire it mirrored!
So I corrected the mistake and the USB is working now

Finally I put everything in the Raspboy where it belongs – or should belong as you see on the picture I measured correcly, the battery and the Raspy fits perfectly so the SD card is accessible from the back after removing the battery cover……..NOT!

For sure everything fits perfectly, but here is not enough room left to pull out the SD card….

The NES-Gamepad-Mouse

I found 2 old NES Controllers in my cellar some time ago. Inspired by the web I decided to build the most unergonomic (but coolest) mouse on earth.


First I disassembled the controller:


Because the Controller was dirty and yellowed I used almost every cleanser I found. I used and mixed the cleanser very carefully since the “chemical accident” I had last year….

Shiny and bright::


For the internals of the mouse I used a Labtec Notebook mouse:


Nice, the PCB of the mouse has a notch which makes fitting in the PCB much easier:


Now I removed some “unnecessary” parts of the mouse. The colored LED (NOT the red LED for the photosensor!), all buttons and the electric components of the scrollwheel had to go. I wanted to keep the “NES-feeling” when pushing the buttons, so micro switches where out of question. Then I started cutting the NES PCB in pieces……


…and wired them to the PCB of the mouse.


After removing some plastic parts of the casing of the NES Controller the mouse-PCB fits perfectly. The hole for the optical sensor was a little bit tricky to place. A template I made of paper, a small drill and a key file did the job. After hot-glueing the PCBs I reassembled the “controller-mouse”, sticked glide-taped on it and plugged it in a USB port:


Horray, it works! But I was not satisfied with my work yed (the cable was kinda ugly). Is there anything better than the original NES cable? I disassembled the controler again and replaced the USB with the NES Cable (which has also 5 cords). Lucky me, the pin assignment was printed on the PCB (Thanks Labtec).The NES Plug was disassembled quite easy. After soldering the USB plug onto the cable the mouse is finally finished.



The NES-USB plug:

Too nerdy or not, what do you think?